Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Le fric--life for two in France on $1500/month
My cross!
Your cross?
The real cross
Is made of pounds,
Dollars or francs.
Here I bear my palms for the silly nails
To teach the lack
—The great pain of lack—
Of coin.
--Stephen Crane
Consider the lilies of the field and learn thoroughly how they grow; they neither toil nor spin. Yet I tell you, even Solomon in all his magnificence was not arrayed like one of these.
--Gospel of Matthew
Il faut cultiver notre jardin.
We must cultivate our garden.
--Voltaire
Ruth and I have been now in France for six months. With rare exceptions we have passed this time in Rouen, our little Normand city located one and a half hours outside Paris. Regular followers of the blog will know by now which activities constitute the bulk of our weekly routine. But what of the rest of this country so rich and diverse in landscape and culture?
Alas, despite a deep interest in seeing more of France, we've chosen a life more modest in accord with all we value deeply. One of the most convenient symbols for this accord is money. For those interested, what follows in an account of our monthly expenses here in France and the manner in which we have organized our time and efforts as a result.
Rent and utilities: $550
Groceries: $600-$700
Transportation: $50
Recreation: $200-$300
Rent is relatively expensive as we live in the city. We have a one-bedroom/studio apartment with separate kitchen and a shower I can stand up in. Embarking upon our initial search for apartments, we found this to be no small luxury.
Groceries are of course only what we buy at the store. Having switched to an almost exclusively vegan whole-food diet over a year ago, we were initially worried about both the availability of certain high-nutrient staples as well as the temptation to stray from our diet given all the delicious sweet treats, baked goods and savory dishes that make up French cuisine.
In this regard, it has been doubly challenging. The abundance of open-air markets and the high quality of French produce makes vegetable and fruit shopping a pleasure. But, where to find organic nut butters, whole-grain rice, flaxseed and other little treats that make up such an important part of our diet? Luckily, we've found a store here in town with a good supply of all things organic.
The only drawback as many fellow organic consumers know is the price. How to fork over for that $25 jar of organic almond purée or the $15 for a bag of delicious organic prunes and still make rent? Here it's really an all-or-nothing proposition as regular peanut and other nut butters don't really exist here, the closest thing being Nutella, the tasty but palm-oil-laden French substitute.
And in regards to restaurants, we allot only so much each month to entertainment. Thus, each outing is a truly dynamic experience, both in the sense of difference to our regular routine but also in the fact of it being generally the only time we partake of the rich and delicious bounty of French cuisine. Additionally, we have been blessed to receive numerous invitations from French friends to dine in home, experiences which have been as rich and fulfilling as any in a restaurant. Often times, the atmosphere is far more conducive to really appreciating the delicious, new offerings.
In truth, even sticking to our valued nutritional principles we are never so hard up as to come close to missing rent. However, it has begged the question of certain priorities in our life. Such as whether to forgo the weekly organic almond butter purchase in the name of saving for a few days travel. But I must say this has been a most joyous opportunity to examine many of the principal impulses in our lives.
Having our income cut in half in comparison to back home has been an opportunity to confront many of the most pressing concerns in modern life. How to negotiate such difficult balances as those between time and money, leisure and work, peace and activity. As Ruth has no work permit, we have been forced to reconsider not only our budget but our relationship as well. Reduction in funds has translated to an increase in time spent together. This largely means more fun for both of us, but intuits certain key attentions paid to the maintenance of the relationship and each person's needs.
Fundamental questions of desire and gratitude have become apparent as well. Travel is a key example. Despite living only 50 miles from the coast, we have yet to visit it. Nor have we seen other key areas or visited Paris more than two or three times. Often times I dream of all the areas I've read and studied so much about and that we've yet to visit, and find a certain melancholy affecting my mood. And yet by all standards I, and Ruth, are doing exactly what we've set out to do. We are hardly lacking in blessings either here or at home. And yet the push for more must constantly be negotiated.
Perhaps it's upbringing or just human nature, but even amidst such keen abundance, I find gratitude to be a most difficult proposition, slipping in and out of the flow of days and months. Here as at home, a balance between quiet and dynamic meditation continues to be the surest means to invite this gratitude into our life. In this light, certain activities rendered necessary by our lifestyle choices take on an even greater importance in terms of appreciation. My two feet serve not just as a chief means of transportation, but as a way to reflect upon and understand some of the most basic aspects of our shared humanity.
Thus, daily exposure to the sun and rain, the beauty and hardship that each hill and crowded street presents are a means to digest the newness of each day and the considerable influence we wield as denizens of a relatively privileged western world, both as consumers and human beings. I am able to consider how best to make use of my time, passion and dollars (or euros for the time being). Distance, effort and achievement come to stand for something again as I reappropriate so much of our basic human nature lost to technology.
Would this gratitude be possible for us with a different relationship to money? Assuredly. But would it be as likely? I can't answer. If we had traveled more we would not have built the strong bonds we now enjoy with our new friends. Necessity has pushed Ruth and I to pursue this adventure in France and I hope that certain small details as offered here might help our readers to appreciate more fully the life and challenges there within.
Winter wanes
Hello All,
Things have been well here in our little city. The cold weather was something, boy. We're sure not used to that type of thing in southern California. But we did have a couple of days when it snowed and then it was very pretty. Lately, it's been a little more mild and it seems we're inching our way slowly towards spring now.
Ruth and I have been busy as ever with work and hobbies. We participated in a rowing competition in the city of Caen this past weekend. That was a very interesting experience for both of us. For Ruth it was her first time in a competition here or at home and it turns out she was in a boat without me to help her with the French. Needless to say, she was a bit nervous. But she did really well and came out of it with a big smile upon her face. We also got to see some different areas of Normandy as well.
We have some exciting plans for the next month or so. In the first week of March we are going to the coast for the first time to spend a couple days with a family we met here in Rouen. And then in mid-March we are planning to go to the eastern part of France for the weekend to do some cross-country skiing. The trip is being organized by the rowing club so we will be accompanied by many of our new friends on this trip.
Since our arrival in France, Ruth and I have been the fortunate guests of several different French families who have invited us over for dinner at their homes. It's been a veritable tour of classic French cuisine: boeuf bourguignon, coq au vin, lapin aux pruneaux, canard rôti and more smelly French cheeses than you ever thought possible. And then there's the wine which I must say has been my favorite part. Despite the fact, we can afford to dine out only occasionally I really can't say we've missed out much in the way of delicious food and drink.
In a sense we have been adopted by our rowing club which has become a sort of home away from home. They refer to us as "our Americans" and really enjoy helping us feel at home in this new culture and language.
When we first arrived here, we were searching for ways to fit in and truly experience a new way of life. Our efforts have been richly rewarded as we are often invited to go for walks to discuss the rich history and architecture of the city or simply to meet at a nearby cafe to discuss life in general. The French are also very curious and interested about life in America, and we often talk about the differences and similarities between our two cultures.
Ruth is getting better and better at French as the old adage proves once again true. Necessity really is the mother of invention. She volunteers her time Wednesday afternoons to go down to the boathouse and help the teenagers with their English homework and conversation skills. I teach seven classes at the university this semester, but it is by all accounts a job I enjoy and learn much from.
Ruth and I are looking forward to the end of winter and the return to warmer days. We miss everyone back home and send our love and best wishes for the difficult times our nation is facing. Indeed, being abroad has helped us to appreciate the numerous blessings we have in our lives.
Love Matthew and Ruth
Saturday, February 7, 2009
February Love From Far Away France
Much of December felt like this. It was cold and beautiful but I couldn't bring myself to get up and get after the ball. So, I sat, much like Eliot and watched my breath.
We continued our immersion process into French life with our boathouse friends, however, participating in the yearly erg competition. It was my first time and Mati won a prize :)! He came in second place in the Loisirs category, earning love and respect from the Frenchies. America represented :)
The Frenchies continue to extend surprising and delightful social lifelines to us, inviting us into their homes for meals and to share cultural and endearing experiences. The French seem to like us very much- even before Obama was in office. ; )
Christmas, the day itself, was quiet and rather strange feeling without family and friends and familiarity. I chopped my hair with kitchen scissors during the discomfort of it all. We drank a bottle of champagne and that helped immensely. : )
We drank another bottle of champagne to ring in the new year, the new president and then the temperature dropped and so we continued our hibernation.
At the end of January, we made our way to Paris and visited the Eiffel Tower and picked up some very precious cargo for a very short but much needed week of visiting.
The week with our dear friends ended far too soon and we were sad to see them go away .
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About Me
- Rudi and Mati
- Two Americans, best friends, share life, love and discomfort in a quiet Normandy city.